Mammoth Lakes Rock Climbing
Much of the climbing in the Mammoth area is on welded volcanic tuff, similar in some respects to both the Owens River Gorge and Oregon's Smith Rock. The best of the welded tuff has a dark, smooth patina, with numerous pockets. There are also numerous formations that are high-quality featured granite.
Rock Creek Area
Rock Creek is a beautiful alpine canyon draining the 13,000' peaks of the Mt. Abbott region. The climbing routes are at an elevation of 9,000' on the west side of the canyon so they receive morning sunshine. The rock is excellent-quality granite, offering some of the best crack climbing this side of Yosemite. There are also some bolted slabs, but the steep, featured sport climbs of the Main Cliff should not be missed.
To get to the Rock Creek area start at the junction of Hwy. 203 and U.S. 395 and drive south on 395. After 16 miles is the Tom's Place/Rock Creek exit. Turn right here and head south up the canyon. The cliffs are all on the west side of the canyon and take about 20 minutes to scramble up to. The mileages indicated are measured from U.S. 395.
Iris Slab
To get to the Iris Slab, drive 4.1 miles up Rock Creek and park outside the Iris Meadow campground, hike through the campground, cross Rock Creek and scramble up to the crag. The Iris Slab has long been a popular teaching area with local guides services and is a great place for beginning climbers. Fixed anchors are found on top, making top-roping and lowering convenient. All routes are about 80' long.
Mammoth Lakes Area
Warming Wall
From Hwy. 203 head west through the town of Mammoth Lakes and turn right on Minaret Road, the second traffic light. Almost immediately turn onto Canyon Boulevard. Follow Canyon Boulevard to its end at the parking lot of the ski area's Canyon Lodge. The Austria Hof inn is the last building on the right; park just beyond it. From here, head up the first gully north of the ski area for 1/4 mile; the cliff will be seen on the right.
This interesting wall provides moderate sport climbing near town. The rock is sharp, grainy and of volcanic origin. The cliff has a forested southern exposure with good climbing from late spring to early fall.
Lakes Basin Area
Horseshoe Slabs
The crag is high-quality granite. This area receives heavy winter snowfall and holds snow well into the early months of summer. With an elevation of 9,000', this area is best in late summer or early fall.
To get to the Lakes Basin, head east on Hwy. 203 through town. At the second traffic light, Hwy. 203 turns right; instead, go straight ahead on Lake Mary Road, heading uphill under Chair 15 and past Twin Lakes. A mile farther is Pokonobe Lodge. Continue to the parking lot at the northwest end of Horseshoe Lake. From the parking lot, hike counterclockwise around the west side of the lake past the group camp to a small trail. Continue to the inlet stream on the southwest side of the lake, where the trail dips down to lake level. The Horseshoe Slabs are just beyond, toward the right in the forest.